Santillana del Mar, Spain Guide
Santillana del Mar, often playfully dubbed the "Town of Three Lies" – *ni es santa, ni llana, ni del mar* (neither holy, nor flat, nor by the sea) – is a truly captivating medieval village that feels plucked straight from a storybook. Its cobbled lanes wind past honey-colored stone houses adorned with wooden balconies, leading you inevitably to the magnificent Romanesque Colegiata de Santa Juliana, the spiritual heart of the town. While you won't find it truly 'del Mar' (it's a short drive to the Cantabrian coast), its other major claim to fame is its proximity to the world-renowned Altamira Cave. Though the original 'Sistine Chapel of Paleolithic Art' is closed to the public, the excellent Neocave replica offers an immersive journey back to the dawn of human creativity. This enchanting setting makes Santillana del Mar a must-visit for anyone exploring Cantabria, especially if you're keen on stepping back in time and exploring ancient human artistry. However, its undeniable charm comes with a caveat. Santillana del Mar is incredibly popular, particularly during peak season. What can feel like a serene step into the past might, at times, transform into a bustling thoroughfare packed with fellow travelers. This popularity also means a significant number of souvenir shops and eateries catering to tourists, which can dilute the authentic feel for some visitors. Furthermore, while the historic center is pedestrianized and delightful to wander, parking can be a challenge on the outskirts, and the uneven cobblestones, while picturesque, might prove tricky for those with mobility concerns or pushing strollers. Despite these practical considerations, a visit planned strategically can still offer a truly memorable glimpse into Spain's rich history and prehistoric wonders.
Food & Cuisine
Cantabrian cuisine is hearty and flavorful, and Santillana del Mar offers a delightful array of traditional dishes. Seafood is a staple, with fresh catches from the Cantabrian Sea featuring prominently on menus. Try "cocido montañés," a rich bean stew with pork and vegetables, or "rabas," fried squid, a popular tapa. Quesada pasiega, a creamy cheesecake, is a must-try dessert. Several restaurants in the town center offer traditional Cantabrian fare, often with outdoor seating overlooking the picturesque streets. Look for restaurants offering "menú del día" for a budget-friendly way to sample local specialties. While there isn't a specific market in Santillana del Mar, you can find local produce and products in small shops throughout the town.
Nightlife
Santillana del Mar is not known for its vibrant nightlife. The town offers a more relaxed and tranquil atmosphere, with evening entertainment primarily focused on enjoying a leisurely dinner at one of the local restaurants or relaxing at a bar with a glass of wine or local cider. Some bars offer live music on weekends, but the overall pace is slow and peaceful. The main street, Calle Mayor, and the surrounding plazas are where you'll find most of the evening activity.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Santillana del Mar is during the spring (April-June) or autumn (September-October). The weather is mild and pleasant, with fewer crowds than the peak summer months. Summer (July-August) can be quite busy and the weather can be hot. Winter (November-March) can be cool and damp, but the town is still charming and offers a quieter experience.
Transportation
Santillana del Mar is a small town best explored on foot. Public transportation within the town is limited. However, buses connect Santillana del Mar to nearby towns and cities, including Torrelavega and Santander. From Santander, you can access a wider network of bus and train services to other parts of Spain. There is no tram or subway/metro system in Santillana del Mar.
Airport
The nearest airport to Santillana del Mar is Santander Airport (SDR), also known as Seve Ballesteros-Santander Airport. It is located approximately 28 kilometers (17 miles) from Santillana del Mar. The easiest way to get from the airport to Santillana del Mar is by taxi or rental car. Alternatively, you can take a bus from the airport to Santander and then another bus from Santander to Santillana del Mar.
Attractions
Torre de Don Borja
The Torre de Don Borja is a medieval tower house located in Santillana del Mar. This well-preserved tower offers a glimpse into the past and provides insight into the architecture and defensive structures of the time. Visitors can admire the tower's imposing presence and learn about its history.
Zoo de Santillana
The Zoo de Santillana is a small zoo that houses a variety of animals. It's a family-friendly attraction where visitors can observe and learn about different species. The zoo provides an opportunity to connect with wildlife and enjoy a day out in a natural setting.
Fundación Jesús Otero
The Fundación Jesús Otero is a cultural institution dedicated to the sculptor Jesús Otero. It showcases his works and promotes art and culture in the region. Visitors can explore the collection and learn about Otero's artistic contributions.
Plaza Mayor de Santillana del Mar
The Plaza Mayor is the heart of Santillana del Mar, surrounded by historic buildings and charming cafes. It's a great place to soak in the atmosphere of the town, admire the architecture, and enjoy a coffee or a meal. The square often hosts events and markets.
Casa del Aguila y la Parra
Casa del Aguila y la Parra is a notable historic house in Santillana del Mar, known for its distinctive architecture and the eagle and vine (águila y parra) carvings on its facade. It's a beautiful example of the town's well-preserved architectural heritage and contributes to the overall charm of the area.
Convento de Regina Coeli
The Convento de Regina Coeli is a convent located in Santillana del Mar. While often not open for extensive tours, its historical significance and architectural beauty contribute to the town's charm. The exterior of the convent is worth admiring as part of the overall historic landscape.
Colegiata de Santa Juliana
The Colegiata de Santa Juliana is a Romanesque collegiate church, considered the most important monument in Santillana del Mar. It features a beautiful cloister, intricate carvings, and houses the relics of Saint Juliana. Visitors can explore the church's history and admire its architectural details, offering a glimpse into the region's medieval past.
Calles de Santillana del Mar
Wandering through the cobblestone streets of Santillana del Mar is an attraction in itself. The well-preserved medieval architecture, with its stone houses, balconies adorned with flowers, and historic details, creates a unique and charming atmosphere. Explore the hidden corners and discover the town's rich history.
Museo de Altamira
The Museo de Altamira is dedicated to the famous Altamira Cave and its prehistoric cave paintings. While the original cave is no longer open to the public, the museum features a replica cave and exhibits that explore the art, culture, and environment of the Paleolithic era. It's an engaging experience for all ages.
Day Trips
The Covadonga Lakes are a stunning natural area located in the Picos de Europa National Park. The lakes, Enol and Ercina, are surrounded by dramatic mountain scenery and offer opportunities for hiking and enjoying the natural beauty. The Sanctuary of Covadonga is also nearby.
2 hours 30 minutes by car Bilbao, a major city in the Basque Country, is renowned for its modern architecture, particularly the Guggenheim Museum. Beyond the museum, the city offers a vibrant cultural scene, delicious Basque cuisine, and a charming old town (Casco Viejo).
1 hour 30 minutes by car Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, is a historic city with a rich architectural heritage. It's known for its pre-Romanesque churches, charming old town, and vibrant cultural scene. The city is also a great base for exploring the surrounding region.
2 hours 30 minutes by car Potes is a charming town nestled in the heart of the Liébana valley, surrounded by the Picos de Europa mountains. It's known for its medieval architecture, picturesque bridges, and the Orujo festival. It's a great base for exploring the mountains.
1 hour 30 minutes by car Castro Urdiales is a historic port town with a well-preserved medieval center. Its highlights include the Santa Maria Church, the castle-lighthouse, and the Roman bridge. The town also offers beautiful coastal walks and a lively atmosphere.
1 hour by car Santander, the capital of Cantabria, is a vibrant coastal city with beautiful beaches, elegant architecture, and a rich cultural scene. Highlights include the Magdalena Peninsula with its palace and stunning views, the Sardinero beaches, and the Centro Botín, a modern art museum.
30 minutes by car San Vicente de la Barquera is a picturesque fishing village with a rich maritime history. Its iconic bridge, the Puente de la Maza, offers stunning views of the harbor and the Picos de Europa mountains in the distance. The town also features a charming old quarter, a lighthouse, and beautiful beaches.
35 minutes by car Comillas is a charming coastal town known for its unique architecture, a blend of modernist and traditional styles. Highlights include El Capricho, a whimsical villa designed by Antoni Gaudí, the Sobrellano Palace, and the old town with its picturesque streets and squares. The town also boasts a beautiful beach and a lively atmosphere.
30 minutes by car Covadonga Lakes
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Bilbao
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Oviedo
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Potes
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Castro Urdiales
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Santander
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San Vicente de la Barquera
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Comillas
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