Susques, Argentina Guide
Welcome to Susques, a captivating village nestled high in the Argentinian Andes! This remote outpost, perched at an altitude of over 3,800 meters (12,500 feet), offers a truly authentic glimpse into Andean life. Forget bustling cityscapes; Susques is all about stark beauty, breathtaking landscapes, and a profound sense of tranquility. Prepare to be mesmerized by the vast, open skies, the rugged mountains painted in hues of ochre and red, and the warm hospitality of the local people. Susques is more than just a pretty picture; it's a living testament to the resilience and traditions of the Andean communities. Explore the historic church, a simple yet striking structure that stands as a symbol of faith and community. Venture out into the surrounding landscapes to discover hidden lagoons teeming with birdlife, ancient rock formations sculpted by wind and time, and the vast, silent expanse of the Puna. Susques is a place to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect with nature and yourself.
Food & Cuisine
The cuisine in Susques is hearty and traditional, reflecting the harsh environment and the reliance on locally sourced ingredients. Expect to find dishes featuring llama meat, quinoa, potatoes, and other Andean staples. Sopa de quinoa (quinoa soup) is a common and nourishing dish, perfect for warming up on a cold day. Empanadas, filled with meat or cheese, are also a popular snack. While Susques doesn't boast a wide array of restaurants, you can find simple, family-run eateries offering home-cooked meals. Look for "comedores" or "restaurantes" in the village. Don't expect fancy dining; the focus is on simple, flavorful food that sustains and satisfies. Be sure to try the local mate, a traditional herbal tea that is a staple of Andean culture.
Nightlife
Nightlife in Susques is virtually non-existent. This is a place to embrace the quiet solitude of the Andes. After sunset, the village settles into a peaceful slumber. The best entertainment is stargazing. With minimal light pollution, the night sky above Susques is absolutely breathtaking, offering unparalleled views of the Milky Way and countless constellations. Bring a blanket, find a comfortable spot away from the village lights, and prepare to be amazed by the celestial display.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Susques is during the shoulder seasons, specifically April-May and September-October. During these months, the weather is generally milder, with pleasant daytime temperatures and cooler nights. The summer months (December-February) can be hot during the day, but also bring the rainy season, which can make travel difficult. The winter months (June-August) are extremely cold, with freezing temperatures and the possibility of snow. Be prepared for significant temperature fluctuations throughout the day, regardless of the season.
Transportation
Transportation in and around Susques is limited, reflecting its remote location. The primary mode of transport is by bus, with services connecting Susques to larger towns like Jujuy and San Salvador de Jujuy. These buses are infrequent, so it's crucial to check schedules in advance and book tickets if possible, especially during peak season. Within Susques itself, walking is the best way to get around, as the village is small and easily navigable on foot. For exploring the surrounding areas, hiring a 4x4 vehicle with a driver is highly recommended, as many of the roads are unpaved and require a robust vehicle. Be prepared for long travel times and challenging road conditions.
Airport
The closest major airport to Susques is the Gobernador Horacio Guzmán International Airport (JUJ) in Jujuy, approximately 280 kilometers (174 miles) away. From the airport, you can take a bus to San Salvador de Jujuy and then another bus to Susques. The journey by bus takes several hours. Alternatively, you can hire a private transfer from the airport directly to Susques, which will be more expensive but significantly faster and more comfortable. Be sure to arrange transportation in advance, especially if you are arriving late in the day.
Attractions
Salinas Grandes
The Salinas Grandes is a vast salt flat that stretches as far as the eye can see. The blinding white landscape creates a surreal and unforgettable experience. Visitors can walk on the salt crust, take stunning photos, and learn about the geological processes that formed this unique natural wonder. The sheer scale and beauty of the Salinas Grandes make it a truly remarkable destination.
Quebrada de Purmamarca
While technically closer to Purmamarca, the Quebrada de Purmamarca is accessible from Susques and offers stunning views of the colorful rock formations. The iconic Cerro de los Siete Colores is a must-see, and visitors can hike or drive through the quebrada to experience its natural beauty. The vibrant colors and dramatic landscapes make it a photographer's paradise.
Iglesia de Susques
The Iglesia de Susques is a historic church that stands as a testament to the region's colonial past. Its adobe construction and simple yet elegant design offer a glimpse into the area's rich cultural heritage. Visitors can admire the architecture, learn about its history, and experience the tranquility of this sacred space. It's a must-see for anyone interested in the history and culture of the region.
Volcán Tuzgle
Volcán Tuzgle is a dormant volcano near Susques. It is a popular destination for hiking and climbing, offering stunning views of the surrounding landscape. The hike to the summit is challenging but rewarding, with panoramic views of the Andes Mountains and the vast plains below. It's a great option for adventurous travelers.
Pueblo de Susques
The Pueblo de Susques is a small, traditional village that offers a glimpse into the authentic way of life in the Argentine Andes. Visitors can wander through the quiet streets, admire the adobe houses, and interact with the friendly locals. Experiencing the slow pace of life and the rich cultural traditions of the Pueblo de Susques is a truly rewarding experience.
Ojo de Mar Tolar Grande
While a bit further afield, the Ojo de Mar near Tolar Grande is a worthwhile day trip from Susques. These unique turquoise pools are home to extremophile organisms and offer a fascinating glimpse into the resilience of life in harsh environments. The contrast between the vibrant blue water and the surrounding desert landscape is truly breathtaking.
Day Trips
Tilcara is a historic town known for its pre-Inca ruins, the Pucará de Tilcara. This reconstructed fortress offers a fascinating glimpse into the region's ancient past. The town also boasts a vibrant arts scene, with numerous workshops and galleries showcasing local crafts. The surrounding landscape is stunning, with dramatic canyons and colorful rock formations.
Approximately 2 - 2.5 hours by car Humahuaca is a historic town located further north in the Quebrada de Humahuaca. It's known for its impressive Independence Monument, which commemorates Argentina's struggle for independence. The town has a strong indigenous heritage, evident in its architecture, traditions, and local crafts. The surrounding landscape is characterized by towering mountains and dramatic canyons.
Approximately 2.5 - 3 hours by car Purmamarca is a charming village nestled at the foot of the iconic Cerro de los Siete Colores (Hill of Seven Colors). This geological wonder is a must-see, showcasing vibrant layers of rock formations painted by mineral deposits over millions of years. The village itself is a delightful blend of indigenous culture and colonial architecture, with a bustling artisan market in the main square.
Approximately 1.5 - 2 hours by car The Salinas Grandes is a vast salt flat that stretches as far as the eye can see. The surreal landscape is a photographer's dream, with its blinding white expanse and geometric patterns formed by the salt. The sheer scale of the salt flats is awe-inspiring, and the experience of walking across them is truly unique.
Approximately 1.5 - 2 hours by car Tilcara
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Humahuaca
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Purmamarca
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Salinas Grandes
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